My roommate Mary invited me on a trip with her and three of
her Chinese co-workers (Annie, Felice and Jan) to Putuo Mountain in nearby
Zhejiang Province. We really had
no idea what to expect before the trip as it was all arranged by her
co-workers. All we really knew
was that it was 2 days and 1 night, and that Putuoshan is very difficult to get
to without speaking or reading Chinese. They told us that it would involve a
lot of outdoors activities, hiking and possibly camping. For 390 RMB (around 60$) it would
include return journey via bus/ferry, entry into the national park, a guided
tour, overnight accommodation, and tea.
Our Chinese friends were right when they said this trip
would be near impossible to make without knowing Chinese. On Tuesday morning at 6AM we met at a
random corner in People’s Square where we were expected to check in for the
tour and meet the bus. When we
arrived there was no booth, no sign, no nothing. Just a guy standing around smoking a cigarette. Annie approached him and asked if this
was the place and he confirmed that it was. He checked us in, but notified us of a problem. Because of the Communist Party meeting
in Beijing, we foreigners would not be allowed to stay in the accommodation
that we had booked with the tour.
He said that we could be spies and that we would have to book a room at
the army barracks after we arrive at Putuoshan. This of course made no sense, the party meeting was in
Beijing and we were supposed to be staying at some sort of B&B/guest house
place. We were confused and a
little bit scared of what the army barracks would entail, but just decided to
go along with it anyway. One thing
you learn quickly about China is that everything is always an adventure, even
the most basic of things. If you
aren’t easygoing you’ll have a shit time in China; you just kind of have to go
with the flow and shrug your shoulders sometimes.
After a five hour or so bus ride we arrived at the ferry
terminal and met our tour guide for the island. Before we could go catch the ferry, the guide had us all
gather around and he began spouting off numbers in Chinese. After what seemed like 10 minutes,
people from our group began shouting numbers too. Apparently he was telling people various numbers to call in
case of emergency, in case anyone was separated, numbers for hotels, numbers
for who knows what else…it went on forever, followed by people shouting out
their own phone numbers. Then he
shouted more numbers, each group of people on the tour was assigned a number to
better keep track of us. We
foreigners plus the three Chinese friends were group 4 or “si” in Chinese. 4 is unlucky in China (most buildings
omit the 4th floor and skip straight to 5) so I think that’s why we
got stuck with it. Turns out it
didn’t cause us any hardship, whodathunkit? So anyway, anytime he said “si” the rest of the trip we had
to shout back at him so he’d know we were there, just in case the two white
faces in the sea of Chinese didn’t catch his attention. The trip involved lots of shouting; this
was just the beginning.
Next we got on the ferry, and after a 10 minute journey we
arrived at Putuoshan Island, where once again we huddled around the tour guide
as he shouted all kinds of things in Chinese right there on the dock. There
wasn’t anything to look at (the smog was thick), there weren’t any monuments
(we were standing on the dock), and there really wasn’t anything worth talking
about as far as I could tell. But
we stood and talked for at least another 10 minutes about who knows what. Two times doesn’t make a trend, but it
was an ominous sign of things to come. Once we got off of the dock and into the park we were
told that we would be going straight to a monastery and wouldn’t be stopping to
put bags away at a hotel or in storage or anything like that. I packed pretty light aside from my big
camera bag, and the Chinese packed super light, but Mary being a Western girl
had a decent sized bag. So before
we got going we asked the guide what we could do with our stuff… he walked us
over to a couple of old Chinese people, told them where we’d be staying, told
us to take out all valuables and to pay the people 5 RMB per bag. OK… So of course we did it. Why not?!
The rest of the day was spent listening to the tour guide
talk for huge chunks of time in random places about nothing, checking out
Buddhist shrines and monasteries, as well as seeing the famous (in some circles
I guess) golden Guan Yin statue that stands 33 meters tall. It was all really gorgeous and it was
nice to see the ocean and some forested nature type areas again. At the end of the day we went to the
“army barracks” that we were told we would be staying at…turns out it is a
converted army barracks and is actually now a pretty nice hotel. Also turns out that those nice old people
that we gave our bags to along with our 5 RMB were kind enough to take them to
the hotel and leave them at the front desk. And they didn’t steal anything either! China is awesome sometimes. It’s especially awesome when you have
no idea what is going on and things just magically work out.
After we checked in to the hotel we went out to dinner. Every single restaurant in the little
village was the same. As we walked
down the street all the owners tried to get us to come into their particular
restaurant, but there was nothing distinguishable about any of the different
places. Tubs of fish and
various sea creatures were on the ground swimming around at each place. Old sickly looking vegetables were on
the racks. No place had a Chinese
menu, let alone an English menu. I
don’t know how our friends ultimately chose a place to eat but somehow they
stopped at one place and we began picking out fish, mussels, crabs and prawns.
When we picked out our fish the lady casually grabbed a net, picked up the
fish, took a step or two away from us, and smashed the hell out of the poor guy
on the cement. After we selected
out desired items we went upstairs to find a full dining room of people Chinese
people happily enjoying seafood and alcoholic beverages. When the two laowai (foreigners) walked
in people took notice. The table
to our left, a group of older Chinese men, immediately began offering us, and
me in particular, swigs of baijiu, which is a strong Chinese liquor. They poured me a couple of shots as we
sat and ate and we all bonded over food and drinks before they headed out while
we were still barely tucking into our food.
The food was amazing.
The poor fish that I had just witnessed be savagely murdered was
perfect, easily the best fish that I have ever had. The prawns were good, the mussels were good, the crab was
good, everything was pretty incredible.
We also ordered an egg soup, rice, a tomato and egg dish that the
Chinese seem to love, and Yu Xiang Rou Si, one of my favorite Chinese dishes (though
it is pork and not sea food). We
were all stuffed by the end of it but it was well worth it for the experience
alone, but the amazingness of the food made it even better.
The next day our tour began again at 6 AM. We were taken to another Buddhist
temple where we spent about two hours, and were then given about 4 hours to do
what we wanted before we had to head back to the bus. We decided to walk to the top of Putuoshan to see the Huiji
Monastery, the highest on the island.
It lies at the end of 1300 stone steps and is pretty steep at times. It was interesting to see the Buddhist
pilgrims climbing the stairs. They
would take three steps, go all the way to the ground, touching their forehead
to the floor before standing back up, taking three more steps, and then doing
it again. They did this the whole way up the mountain. Couldn’t have been easy.
The Buddhist temples are all really cool, though once you
have seen one you have pretty much seen them all. They all have similar
courtyards, filled with people bowing and burning incense. Inside they have a variety of buddhas
and again, people bowing. Monks
walk around doing their thing, ringing gongs or talking on their cell
phones. There doesn’t seem to be
much more to it from an outsiders perspective. They would be really serene places if there weren’t so many
people there making noises and bumping into each other.
On the way home we had another surreal China
experience. The bus stopped at a
large convention center type place and were ushered into a small room. Once seated we were given a live
infomercial type demonstration. It
was like being on late night TV, live and in the flesh. The guy had a headset and he spilled
various liquids onto the fabric and began demonstrating that water would not
get out the mess. After a few
minutes of watching and not really understanding what he was saying (though we
could easily have guessed) we decided to head out and go see what else there
was in the convention center. When
we left the room our tour guide became very upset. He began to yell at our Chinese friends and they yelled
back. It was very odd. They argued for a few minutes before
Annie and Jan went back in, and Mary, Felice and I pressed on through the
building. Felice explained that
the infomercial was part of our tour and that the guide gets a cut of any money
that is made off of the products that the guy was demonstrating. By us not staying to watch he was
losing out on potential income.
The argument wasn’t about Mary and I leaving, he said he didn’t care
about us not staying for the infomercial, but that the Chinese people had to
stay and watch. During the
argument he even mentioned that the Buddha would not bless them if they didn’t
stay to watch the infomercial.
Strange stuff.
But it would get weirder…the huge convention center was like
a giant “as seen on tv” store that twisted and turned its way through the
building. It funneled you through
and you had to walk through all of it, there was no way to skip ahead. Products and shelves and walls forced
you around in their desired direction.
Odd products abounded, including a head scratcher that a Chinese worker
was kind enough to demonstrate on my head for me (great picture I have of her
scratching my head I will add somewhere, likely instagram I guess when I get
around to it). She was very sweet
actually, spoke decent English, and for some reason introduced me to her
Uncle. Well not exactly for some
reason, she brought me to him because she said that I “have a lot of money.” I guess because I’m white? I don’t really know…I didn’t buy
anything so don’t know where she got the idea.
After the “as seen on TV” section there was a huge seafood
section we had to go through, followed by a strange snack section, filled with
all kinds of weird stuff that I had never seen before, not even in China. Most of it I had no idea at all what it
was, and our friends really didn’t know what a lot of it was. I walked down the aisles asking the
workers “zhe shi shen ma?” over and over and whenever I got an answer that I
maybe could sound out in pinyin, I’d put it into the phone to see if I could
get the English name for it. It was oddly fun.
After this and then a few more hours on the bus, we stopped
at another one of these places for another infomercial and more
“shopping.” This time instead of
foods it was mostly knock off purses and jackets as well as a variety of
knick-knacks and toys. We made it
back to Shanghai around 7 PM, they dropped us off on a different random corner
near People’s Square than the one they picked us up at, but we made it back
safe and sound and I’m not sure but either more confused about China or much
wiser about China…not entirely sure.
Random Only in China Moment #1: At the hotel a large group of old Chinese ladies, maybe
around 20 or so of them, came in to the check-in area at the same time as
us. As we were leaving one of the
ladies shouted “laowai” at me and pointed. All of them turned around and began pointing at me and
saying “laowai, laowai.” I then
told them in my horrible Chinese “Where is the laowai? Where is the laowai?” They all started cracking up laughing
and thought it was the funniest thing ever. Chinese people that aren’t used to foreigners are
awesome. They have no shame
pointing at you and calling you “laowai.”
Seeing a white face must be such an unusual and infrequent experience
for them it kind of blows your mind to think about. If people staring at you and maybe even getting into your
personal space bothers you then China is not the place for you, but if you can
just roll with everything it is so much fun.
Random Only in China Moment #2: Chinese buses always have a “bus attendent” for lack of a
better term. They ride on the bus
and handle customer issues or tickets or fares and things of that nature. On the way home on the bus the
attendant gave a microphone to a little girl around 6 years old and asked her
to sing a song. She sang a few
songs and it was really cute and everyone had a good time. Next she gave the microphone to Mary
and I after telling everyone essentially that “next the white people will
sing.” We laughed and said “no”
and that we aren’t going to sing.
However Felice grabbed the mic and began singing a song that the three of
us all know and we ended up all singing together. We were very amusing to the Chinese folk apparently and
received quite an ovation when we were finished. Another one of those “roll with it” China moments.
Also, Putuoshan had a few more moments for me that I like to
call being “China famous.”
Essentially people either taking your picture, either slyly or not
covertly at all, or for the more bold, asking you to take a picture with
them. I was stopped 4 or 5 times
for pictures while there. It doesn’t
really bother me at all, I think it’s fun, but a lot of people out here seem
really bothered by it.
Overall, another good time in China, that’s all I really
seem to be having. Sorry for the
length to anyone that may be reading.